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| Using a pencil to make gunmetal highlights |
Here's a trick I learned from the 1/35th scale modeling folks and it works pretty well on minis. A great way to simulate gunmetal is to use a graphite pencil and hit the high spots on a black undercoated weapon...or in this case some German equipment. The graphite sticks just fine and if the figure is clear-coated it becomes permanent.
These are the 28mm Bolt Action plastics that were such a headache to assemble, but are really nice to paint up...(except for a broken rifle barrel during drybrushing)
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| (Note: the grey in the pics shows up lighter than actual) |
The last pic is an SMG man still in progress just after a wash of the older GW "flesh shade" which is still better than their newer formula. The new version seems not "strong" enough. Too bad I'm on my last jar ("pot").
On the good side, the GW "Skavenblight Dinge" Layer color (available in my town at the local game shop) is an almost exact match for Vallejo "German Field Grey" #830 (that I have to order online). I try to support the local shop if can...and they are always good for a quick Warhammer fix if need arises.
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| Pencil trick on an 1/72 "Armorfast" Achilles (MGs and chipped turret edges) |
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| Pencil trick on 15mm FOW US M4s ...esp the treads. |
7 comments:
What a good idea ! I must remember that next time I do metalwork.
Great idea. Hat off to whoever came up with that.
Neat trick, I'll also have to give it a try.
Nice one.
I am just painting up some 28mm Shermans and will try this out
Cheers
Excellent tip. Must try it!
Years ago I wondered about that, but then I discovered my silver/gloss black mix for metals, and since then don't generally bother with dry-brushing. Having said that, I have observed occasions in which metal dry-brushing would certainly be preferable: e.g. weathering military vehicles, as you have demonstrated.
But here's a question: what grade of pencil lead? I favour 2B pencils for most of what I do: is it a suitable grade for this sort of task?
I find a normal yellow pencil works fine but to really get specific a 2B or 3B will work to great advantage as they strike a balance between soft and hard...so you can get good detail and not too fuzzy...
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